Tag Archives: Parks Canada

Humbled By Fundy’s Tides – 1984

One of the highlights of transferring to Fundy National Park in the early 1980’s was the fact that at the time, Fundy was probably leading the Atlantic Region national parks, if not the country’s, in conducting natural resource management projects, including three very high profile species reintroductions for American marten, Atlantic salmon and Peregrine Falcons.

            I don’t know the specifics of the genesis of these projects but suspect they were a collaborative effort on the part of the park’s former Chief Park Warden Paul Galbraith, the current Chief, Duane West, the park’s resource management advisor Stephen Woodley, and Park Superintendent Ken East.

            In my career, these four men stand out as some of the more progressive thinkers in Parks Canada at the time and I was lucky enough to have a continued working relationship with them at various points throughout my more than three decades with the outfit as we moved across the country working in different national parks.

            The Peregrine Falcon project in particular also shone a light on the many skills of one of the local park wardens, George Sinclair, who would become the poster boy for the program and shoulder much of the responsibility for its success, including installing the young birds in a hack box situated on the cliffs high above Point Wolfe and seeing them through their first few weeks of acclimatizing to their new surroundings before fledging.

            My own role was more limited but because I had a boating background acquired from my time in Terra Nova National Park, and because most of the other wardens, despite being from the Bay of Fundy area, were landlubbers in the truest sense of the word, I was given the honour of manning the park’s only seaworthy vessel, a small inflatable Zodiac, on the day of the birds’ release.

            That morning I was to position the Zodiac in the small cove at Point Wolfe, directly below the peregrine hack box, in the event one of the fledglings ended up in the water. If that happened my job was to save the bird (I think at all costs was implied).

            Piece of cake, I thought.

            I’d handled lots of bigger boats in rougher seas and come away unscathed.

            Launching the boat at high tide on the flat calm of the Bay of Fundy, I fearlessly ferried to the middle of the cove and threw out the anchor, planning to remain as stationary as possible until the birds were released and had safely flown away from the site.

            I would save any bird that foundered and ended up in the drink.

            Simple enough, I thought.

            And then the tide turned, literally.

            Anyone who has seen the Bay of Fundy fill with water, or empty, as the case may be, knows only too well the magnitude of the change.

            Here’s how Google describes it …

            “On a flood tide, 160 billion tonnes of seawater flows into the Bay of Fundy — more than four times the estimated combined flow of all the world’s freshwater rivers during the same 6-hour interval. The vertical tidal range can be over 16 metres — giving the Bay of Fundy the highest tides in the world.”

            On an ebb tide, the reverse is true.

            Here’s how I described it that morning …

            Holy shit!

            As the Bay of Fundy emptied, I should have been proud that my anchor held.

            And I was initially.

            However, as the force of the tide created a massive bow wave in front of the Zodiac, giving the appearance of going upstream in a raging rapid, I was certain the boat would swamp and I would become the former Wolfe Lake warden.

            I had never before and have never since seen anything so powerful happen so fast.

            And while I was panicking, the Peregrines were starting to fly.

            Lookouts were reporting the bird’s first flights, and the park radios were buzzing with excitement.

            First one bird, then all four young were airborne for short periods, hopscotching along the cliffs, finding a secure foothold in red spruce as they continued to test their wings.

            Meanwhile, a hundred metres below, a very scared park warden fumbled for his Leatherman, the knife specifically, planning to saw away at the anchor line, riding tautly against the rubber-neoprene tubes of the inflatable boat.

            Cut the rope and I’d be home free.

            Cut the rubber-neoprene tubes and I’d be … you guessed it.

            Thankfully I managed to cut only the rope.

            And while others were caught up in the magic of restoring Peregrine Falcons to the Bay of Fundy that day, a hugely successful reintroduction by the way, I was bowing to the Bay gods, eventually landing the Zodiac and dragging it, as well as my sorry ass, across the wide expanse of mudflats, back to the warden truck … as quietly and unceremoniously as possible.

            Nothing was saved that day, certainly not my pride.

Six Parks

One Evening In Fundy – 1983

The day had been a routine one in Fundy, split between vehicle patrols to wave the flag and time spent in the office catching up on paperwork, the not so glamorous side of being a national park warden, completing occurrence reports and taking time to write up more of the summer’s resource management work.

            As I recall it, Alan Nicol was working the late shift until midnight and after staying a little longer than planned, probably just shooting the shit with Alan, I headed back to Wolfe Lake, taking my time to keep an eye out for anything unusual.

            Fundy’s weather could be notoriously unpredictable and while the little village of Alma on the coast could be blanketed in fog with no snow on the ground, there could be several feet of snow at the Wolfe Lake Warden Station, roughly twenty kilometres away.

            Such is the influence of the Bay of Fundy, with the transition in road conditions from the shores of the bay to the Caledonia Highlands Plateau often quite gradual or sometimes abrupt. On this particular evening it was the latter with a layer of black ice coating the highway as I crested the top of the plateau.

            Touching the brakes to test the road, the warden truck skidded slightly sideways, forcing me to slow down for the trek back to Wolfe Lake. In the looming darkness of late autumn, I took my time, hoping to make it back to the lake before it started to snow, making the ice-covered road surface even more treacherous.

            Passing the now-closed entrance to Chignecto Campground, I scanned for vehicles and seeing nothing continued on my way. Driving past Kinnie Brook picnic area I noticed the silhouette of a vehicle half-hidden behind an island of trees in the parking lot. Easing the truck to a stop I cautiously turned around and drove back toward the entrance, slowly entering the picnic area and pulling up slightly behind but angled toward the vehicle, not ideal positioning but it often never is.

            With my headlights shining into the driver-side mirror of the late-model pickup I could make out one person sitting behind the steering wheel and wondered if there was a passenger, now somewhere outside of the truck.

            For the life of me, I can’t recall if I radioed Alan to say I was checking a vehicle or not, but flashlight in hand, I exited the warden truck and approached the vehicle from the rear, along the driver’s side.

            Tapping on the side window I motioned for the driver to roll it down, indicating I was a national park warden doing a routine hunting patrol. At that moment I could see an uncased rifle laying across the driver’s lap, its barrel angled directly toward me. Stepping back slightly I reiterated my request, but to no avail.

            Completely ignoring me, the driver started his vehicle and began to pull away, almost catching me between his truck and my own. Squeezing my body against the warden truck I barely managed to avoid getting crushed or caught on the other vehicle’s bumper and dragged out onto the highway.

            As the now-suspect vehicle turned onto Highway 114, I quickly climbed back into the warden truck and gave pursuit, radioing Alan that I was now in hot pursuit of a suspected poacher. Since the vehicle was headed north toward Sussex and the Trans-Canada Highway, I asked Alan to contact the New Brunswick Highway Patrol to try and intercept, advising him that Highway 114 through the park was ice-covered and very slippery.

            The words were barely out of my mouth when I saw a flash of light against the low clouds and suspected that the driver had spun out of control and gone off the road. When I rounded the next turn, my suspicions were confirmed. The pickup was right-side up but had slid well off the road and was stuck, as the driver spun the wheels to try and extricate his vehicle and escape.

            Radioing Alan I updated him on the situation and sat for a moment, evaluating my next move. After all the man was armed and I had, well, a flashlight.

            At that moment the driver got out of his vehicle … without his rifle.

            It was immediately obvious to me that he was under the influence as he staggered toward me, trying his best to stay upright as he negotiated the highway’s icy surface.

            I got out and carefully walked toward him, quickly realizing he was significantly bigger than me; taller and broader with a reach I couldn’t match. As he continued toward me, he kept wind-milling his arms in slow motion, trying to grab me as he appeared to consciously test his footing, largely ignoring my explanation that I was a national park warden, and he was under arrest for having an uncased firearm in the park.

            At the time it seemed almost comical as I easily evaded his moves, all the while asking him to get in the warden truck. I advised him that New Brunswick Highway Patrol was enroute and there was nowhere he could go.

            After a few minutes he finally conceded and using the truck for support, walked to the passenger door and got inside. I had no intentions of getting in with him but opened the driver’s side door and spoke with him until the Highway Patrol finally showed up and took him into custody.

            I later found out he was known to our Park Commissionaires as he had served in the military.

            A few months later he pleaded guilty in Sussex court and was fined both for impaired driving as well as the lesser charge (at the time) of having an uncased and loaded firearm in the national park.

            In hindsight I know this could have turned out much worse than it did. If road conditions had been different, I have no doubt we would have been involved in a high-speed chase until the suspect either went off the road or was stopped by the highway patrol. And if he didn’t have to contend with an icy road and could have gotten his hands on me, or if he exited his vehicle with the rifle, well I don’t even want to think about how things might have ended.

            But on this night, it ended well.

Mother Nature not Mother Canada

Since I retired from Parks Canada three years ago I have been trying to stay out of the multitude of controversies that the organization seems to wade into on a regular basis, trying to maintain my health and sanity. I had hoped, upon retirement, to focus on writing, specifically to try and communicate stories about the natural sciences that would engage a new generation in the wonders of nature and the value of parks and protected areas in particular.

My focus was to be non-fiction, but a few days after I retired, Parks Canada was hit with a series of cuts that cut me to the bone and I started blogging about the impacts to our treasured system of special places.

But day after day, writing about the travesties that the current government was imposing on us was just too disheartening, too negative.

I began freelancing and writing a few pieces for Earth Touch, a new multi-media company based in South Africa as well as some volunteer writing and editing. I also took a couple of fiction writing courses at our local college and got turned on to the notion of writing fictional stories based on my more than thirty years working in Canada’s national parks.

I just couldn’t stay away.

But I couldn’t handle the realities of what was happening to our parks so writing non-fiction, for the time being, was off-limits.

So I’m writing fiction, for the most part.

I get asked from time to time what I think about this issue or that related to parks and protected areas and for the most part, I give my response and move on.

Most recently I was asked to sign on to a petition regarding Wood Buffalo National Park as well as a letter protesting the latest issue facing Cape Breton Highlands. The former deals with the multitude of impacts facing what I think of as one of Canada’s most under-appreciated national parks and the latter deals with a proposal to erect a monument in one of this country’s most iconic national parks.

It’s this latest proposal, to erect what is being called the “Mother Canada” memorial in Green Cove in Cape Breton Highlands National Park that is a kind of tipping point for me.

Our veterans are in my view, one of the most deserving groups of Canadians.

Remembrance Day for me is the most significant statutory holiday of the year.

I have worked with veterans for decades and have nothing but respect for the service they gave to our country and the price they paid for doing so.

My parents lived on the “Army Side” near the present day town of Gander in Newfoundland and helped build the town from it’s war-era beginnings. War-related stories were a significant part of my upbringing.

One national park in every province and territory has a memorial to the sacrifices made by each and every person who served our country in wartime. In Cape Breton Highlands, that memorial sits on French Mountain, overlooking the iconic view of the park’s coastline that is known around the world.

The inscription is short but poignant.

“They will never know the beauty of this place,
See the seasons change, enjoy nature’s chorus.
All we enjoy we owe to them, men and women who
Lie buried in the earth of foreign lands and in
the seven seas. Dedicated to the memory of
Canadians who died overseas in the service of their
country and so preserved our heritage.”

It is a deeply meaningful and appropriate memorial, well situated in one of our most special of places. It fits well within the context of a national park and its inscription hits the mark.

A grotesque 26m tall monument in Green Cove, Cape Breton Highlands National Park does not.

There are famous memorials across Europe that play homage to the sacrifices of those who fought and those who lost their lives during the Great Wars. Vimy is one such site and the proposed Mother Canada memorial has been likened to it.

But Vimy was a significant battleground. Green Cove was not.

Let’s not make it one.